kate tells a story!

yesterday we took off from our "casa oro" in a pick up truck, across the beach (literally), and 40 minutesp up dirt road and arrived at baja majesta (or something like that) with aspirations of finding a beach where we could learn to surf. so, we set out along the coast, nalgenes, bananas, bread, and sandals in tow, across rocks and sandy coves in search of "beach awesome." supposedly 20 mins away and 20 surfers in the water. 20 minutes later we come across a beach with a little blue building. outside there is a hippy-esque encampment of surfers around an old toyota conversion van. the blue building is lined with beer toting blonds in hammocks, and Toña beer flags. so we rented our selves 1 board and headed out to a completely empty beach. as the french guy described the waves "well, at least its something to look at." in other words, perfect for not getting ourselves killed on. we spent the afternoon trading off the board, trying to share advise on what we'd learned, but not really getting anywhere. as the afternoon wore on we had a pretty good idea of how to catch a wave, and for the most pert we could get to our knees, and eventually shared
the beach with a few other surfers and a guy on a dirt bike riding giant circles. then, out of the woods, hoards of surfers arrived seemingly at the same time as the waves went from "something to look at" to frighteningly large. but we stuck it out, we now had people to watch and learn from. namely for me, and 8 year old who, when during our introductions, showed my boob! he was full of helpful advise like
"focus" and "you have to try and keep your balance". by the time we left we were all pretty burned, and i had stood up once for like 2 seconds, and another time for like .5 seconds. yay what fun! okay, well that's my story, sorry if it's super incoherent, i'm paying for Internet and i dont feel like revising or anything. we're going to try and go to costa rica tomorrow. WOO!